Friday, April 18, 2014

Repoussé: An introduction

I was chatting with a friend and showing them pictures of my shield progress, and they asked some questions that led me to the realization that many of you aren't aware of what repoussé is.  So for this post, I'm actually going to go more high-level (no project update folks, sorry) and explain in more detail what repoussé is.

Repoussé (pronounced Reh-Pew-Zay) literally translated, is the art of "raising", specifically in metal.  Simply put, it's the art of creating a 3-dimensional art surface from a sheet of metal.  The technique is thousands of years old and was heavily used by blacksmiths, armorers, jewelers, and others.  Many of today's techniques for tooling leather are also similar.  The same general principles apply to tool leather as well as to emboss metal.  Repoussé is sometimes done without "chasing" but usually both are used in conjuction with one another to create an embossed design.

Repoussé is to work the back of the piece, so that from the front you have a raised design.  Chasing is fundamentally the same, but instead you are working the front to create detail or depressions on the front surface.

The process generally works as follows: You have a sheet of metal, and by taking very smoothed punches and chisels (the tips are highly polished so as not to "cut" the metal, but instead to "push" it).  You use a liner (small chisel like shape) to line the detail of your work.  To absorb the shock of the process, the work piece is placed on a firm, but giving surface.  Loosely referred to as a "chasing medium" or "chaser's pitch".  Chaser's pitch is a substance made from tar, pitch, clay, sand, etc to create a firm yet viscous surface to strike against.  For heavier work such as steel, lead or tin is generally used as a chasing medium.  Here are some examples of repousse and chased work:

http://www.victorialansford.com/Bracelets/inspiraled.jpg

http://www.tammygilchrest.com/jewelry-art-4/

Taking a hammer and these smoothly polished punches/chisels you work the metal into the chasing medium, slowly raising the design from the sheet.  The chasing medium serves two purposes simultaneously.  First, it provides a firm surface to help support the non-raised areas and ensure the entire shock of the blow is focused on the area you are moving.  Second, the chasing medium is soft enough to give directly beneath the struck area so the design is raised and you don't just bang it against another hard surface, thinning the work metal too much.  This is one key area where chasing and repoussé differ from blacksmithing.

You want to continually anneal the work piece if it is made from a metal that will work harden.  Many metals get more brittle as the molecules are compacted.  Have you ever taken metal wire and bent it, then bent the same spot the other way, then again and again?  Eventually it snaps.  This is due to the "work hardening" that is happening at the bend point on the metal.  Annealing loosens the molecules again and keeps the metal malleable and prevents it from becoming brittle and cracking while you're working.  Materials like copper, brass and bronze work harden very quickly and so you must anneal quite often.  Steel work hardens more slowly, but in general is harder to move due to its strength.

Once you've raised the surface, you flip the worked piece over and do the same thing from the front, making the lines sharper, or recessing areas that have unintentionally become raised (generally around the edges of the design you are trying to emboss).

That's repoussé in a nutshell, but words can never do as well as a short video.  Here is a repoussé artist creating repousse onto a plate of sterling silver.  You can see the general process in this short (roughly 7-minute) video.  This is precisely the process I am using for my shield (and will be using for the armor for the Zelda costume).  For the shield, the major differences are in the size and weight of the chisels I am using, the hammers I am using are heavier, and the chasing medium is not pitch (as in the video), but instead I am using pure tin (which is soft similar to lead, but less hazardous).

Take a look, this will help y'all understand what it is exactly that I'm doing to produce the embossed loftwing on the shield:

Davide Bigazzi Performing Repoussé to Make a Decorative Silver Plate

We also have Victoria Lansford, who has written many books on the subject:

Another great video by Victoria Lansford on using the art of Eastern Repoussé

One interesting final note, I am willing to bet you've seen a famous repoussé piece of artwork and haven't even realized it.  One of the most famous works done using repoussé is none other than the Statue of Liberty in New York, USA.  That was done using repoussé on VERY MASSIVE copper sheet/plate.  It's the same technique only at a sculptural and architectural scale.  VERY impressive.

It's a fun craft to learn.  The work is very effort intensive and as such, pieces made using this technique are VERY expensive.  They are beautiful though!

Now back to our regularly scheduled program of my project!  Thanks, everyone!

Sunday, April 13, 2014

A loftwing begins to emerge...

Hey everyone,

So yesterday I had the pleasure of visiting a friend's house.  He also happens to be a blacksmith.  I got some great pointers on working with steel (as opposed to the non-ferrous metals to which I am more accustomed).  In so doing, I managed to make some good progress on the shield embossing.  The MAP gas torch, by the way, makes a HUGE difference.

So let's walk through where we are:


You can see from the white cloudiness that with the new torch, I was able to get the steel MUCH hotter (and consequently much more malleable).  This then let me make some actual movement on lining the loftwing in:





The lines are a bit rough.  You can see, if you look closely, it's more like a nearly-connected set of "dashes" made with the moving chisel.

Given the shield is so thick, this actually still produces a decent form on the front side.  I will still make them smoother as I go as well as when I get to the full raising 
stage of the process.

Now as you look at the front you'll notice the lines are not crisp.  That is okay as the "chasing" part of the process is where those lines from the front will get more crisp.  Here is what we have when looking at the front:




And from further out you can start to make out a loftwing on the front of the shield:



It's exciting to see the pattern start to emerge.  I still have a long ways to go, but very reassuring progress!

Monday, April 7, 2014

I'm all for by-hand but...

Hey everyone, so I made some recent progress (and had a bit of a setback, too) on the shield.  We'll start with the bad news.

First, repousse on steel is HARD!!! I've now done some on non-ferrous metals (copper, brass, etc.) and, while it work hardens, it is relatively malleable to emboss.  Steel work hardens much less than those metals and even can sometimes be cold-hammered.  So, out come the three-pound sledge and the repousse tools and I am thinking I can make some progress on the loftwing pattern.  NOPE!!! Won't budge.  So then I think: let's add some heat! NOPE! All I managed to do was scorch it.  So clearly I need a hotter flame and I am probably gonna have to get it to almost forging temperature, but we'll come back to that...

Bad news (but some good news, too): I got started on my triangle edge-beveling!  Here we have something to show for it:


Nice and clean, huh? Well. That one edge took FOUR AND A HALF HOURS!!! I'm all for by-hand, but at 4.5hrs per edge... That means we're looking at 40.5 hours just to rough-bevel the triangles! That doesn't even include the polishing! Yikes! So... I need something to speed things along at least for the majority of the stock removal.  So this morning I ordered a belt grinder.  Hehe. C'mon, I know, I know. I can hear you saying it.  "Smiths of old never had belt grinders!" Well...  If they did they'd have used them, People.  Cut me some slack.  I want to work smart. I will still be doing the finishing work (final filing and polishing) by hand.  I just want help with the general shaping! 

In other news, and something that went exactly as planned, was the bending of the triangles to match the curvature of the shield.  I just threw each triangle on my Arbor press and gave the handle a good pull (not TOO much) and voila!


You can see they now have a gentle curve that matches the curve of the shield.  I love my Arbor press!

So, now having ordered the belt grinder, I also decided I needed a hotter torch, so I also ordered: a MAPP gas torch and threw in some more of the raw materials I will need to finish up the fabrication of the shield: 1/8" diameter steel rod (to frame the triforce), and 1/8" thickness steel plate (to make the thorns, and the accents pieces of the edging/rim).

I just need to get the actual sheet for the basic rim and I will have procured all the metals necessary for the shield.  Once fabrication is done I can then worry about finishing (acid etching, enameling and mounting).

Coming along!